SO I've been using blackface Fenders for years, first Twin reissues and now a vintage Super Reverb. I've come to the conclusion that the sound I want is somewhere between the bright switch engaged and disengaged. I really don't like the frequencies with the bright switch on but I do like the added definition, if there was a way to achieve that on the normal channel that would probably be perfect. I've experimented with speakers and tubes(both preamp and power), as well as recently borrowing another BF Fender Super reissue because I thought it might be any number of those factors, but my amp definitely sounded better than the reissue and the speakers I settled on(Weber Californias) give me more definition than various Celstions, Jensens, and their clones. At the moment the only possibilties I've got are getting Weber Cali's with aluminum domes(mine have paper) as I've heard that they add presence, or maybe I'd just like a different amp better? That thread about "Best Clean Amp" got me thinking about those Groove Tubes amps... oh yeah, and the BJFE SBEQ- maybe that would do it? OK floor's open for ideas-
Posts: 1421 | Location: Long Island | Registered: July 15, 2002
You can blend (third channel) the dirty and clean channels, as each has it's own set of vol and eq controls. It's not a cheesy sound, you can clearly hear a clean and dirty sound seperately. It sounds like two guitarists. I bought mine in '96 when they came out, I'll never sell it.
the best solution would be to just change the value of the cap on the amp. that'll solve your porblem since you can pick exactly the value you want, thus creating the "brightness" you want. no need to add more pedals on the front end of it all unless you want to.
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Posts: 1298 | Location: Austin, TX. USA | Registered: May 04, 2002
quote:Originally posted by Telepicker: the best solution would be to just change the value of the cap on the amp. that'll solve your porblem since you can pick exactly the value you want, thus creating the "brightness" you want. no need to add more pedals on the front end of it all unless you want to.
Man I wish I knew a good amp tech... and I wish I had a second amp so I wouldn't mind dropping off my #1 at the shop! But if I had a second amp I probably wouldn't be so concerned with this one. Which is why I'm thinking about getting another amp... ahh circular logic-
Posts: 1421 | Location: Long Island | Registered: July 15, 2002
quote:Originally posted by bluesmann: you could try a eq pedal or a parametric eq.
Yeah I do that sometimes, it works good if I just use it by itself with the amp, but If I hit an OD or fuzz everything sounds too processed. That's why I want to try out the SBEQ, it seems that it's meant to interact better between the amp and your pedals than a typical EQ.
Posts: 1421 | Location: Long Island | Registered: July 15, 2002
quote:Originally posted by Hendrix2430: i suspect you could achieve what you want with a little red trebler. Even an RC Booster you can get a nice alternate clean sound if you wish.
I thought about that- if you know more about it tell me some details, is the knob for amount of boost or does it adjust frequencies? I heard it was designed around the same frequency as the Fender bright switch and if that's the case then I might not like it since I don't really like the frequencies when the switch is engaged and its just the added definition I like.
Posts: 1421 | Location: Long Island | Registered: July 15, 2002
quote:Originally posted by Hendrix2430: i suspect you could achieve what you want with a little red trebler. Even an RC Booster you can get a nice alternate clean sound if you wish.
I thought about that- if you know more about it tell me some details, is the knob for amount of boost or does it adjust frequencies? I heard it was designed around the same frequency as the Fender bright switch and if that's the case then I might not like it since I don't really like the frequencies when the switch is engaged and its just the added definition I like.
Well the MGMV and LRT are heading your way after meterman finishes, so you can see for yourself......
And I also like using both channels by splitting into both and then phase correcting one so you get more depth to the sound, either a Baby Pink or Launch Pad would do this.....and that would also give you some other 'layered sound' options..
I talked to Bjorn a while back about the Red Rooster Booster, which was the main pedal I was intersted in. But he ended up talking about the difference with the LRT, which according to him acted a bit like a "bright switch" on an fender. I don't exactly recall the way he wrote it, but it was something like that.
If it indeed does that, then the a knob adjusting both a subtle volume boost and a full range "bright" would be nice...
The RC is really flexible though, I'm sure it could do what you want.
"-B-But, you have perfect MCAT scores...?! -Yeah...Just 'cause you're hung like a moose doesn't mean you gotta do porn!"
quote:Originally posted by Telepicker: the best solution would be to just change the value of the cap on the amp. that'll solve your porblem since you can pick exactly the value you want, thus creating the "brightness" you want. no need to add more pedals on the front end of it all unless you want to.
Man I wish I knew a good amp tech... and I wish I had a second amp so I wouldn't mind dropping off my #1 at the shop! But if I had a second amp I probably wouldn't be so concerned with this one. Which is why I'm thinking about getting another amp... ahh circular logic-
Changing the bright-switch cap is easy (provided that you have the amp dicharged and you monito for high voltages with a volt-meter): There's a 120 pF connected to the bright switch. Replace it by a silver mica 100 (or even a little lower) to brighten up the lower position of the bright switch. The bright-up position is unaltered. BTW you can't jumper the vib. and norm. channel in a super-rverb as they are out of phase. good luck
I'm older Budweiser
Posts: 216 | Location: The Netherlands | Registered: March 25, 2002
quote:Originally posted by Telepicker: the best solution would be to just change the value of the cap on the amp. that'll solve your porblem since you can pick exactly the value you want, thus creating the "brightness" you want. no need to add more pedals on the front end of it all unless you want to.
+1
"I've spent most of my money on booze, women and guitar gear. The rest I've just wasted."
I'd also suggest adjusting the bright cap value. This is literally a 5 minute job (after the amp is dissasembled.) Maybe you could schedule a time to bring it to a tech, and have them work on it while you wait?
Head
______________________________ 10-24-08 RIP Bob Sweet. May your sweet sound live on forever. ---------------------------------------- All that nitpicky BS is just the ultimate in bedroom wanking - Cubba
quote:Originally posted by Telepicker: the best solution would be to just change the value of the cap on the amp. that'll solve your porblem since you can pick exactly the value you want, thus creating the "brightness" you want. no need to add more pedals on the front end of it all unless you want to.
I had a mod on a couple of my Fenders that took the resistors that are on the second input of each channel and put them on a pot in the second hole --- this adjusted the resistance exactly and made a nice subtle change in how the signal hit the first tube......simple to do ----- and I would imagine something similar could be done with the bright cap,, put it on a pot in the same second input whole to adjust the intensity of the bright cap. Might be nice if you use different guitars...
... and to put a finer point on what JPB was explaining.... What ever you change on the bright cap you will actually be changing the DOWN position as the up or bright position is actually the amp itself with no cap - but you can raise the brightness of the down position up to where you want it....
But you CAN jumper the channels on fenders , you just need something to reverse the phase between them like the Baby Pink Booster or the Launch Pad, or there are even just some normal pedals that do that as part of thier circuitry but youd have to experiment ( one of my delays does this- I had to take t he BPB OUT as it was double correcting!!) ----
If you havent tried this its a nice sound upgrade with the channels phase corrected.....
Plug into input 1 on normal channel - plug out from input 2 to a pedal and t hen out from the pedal into channel 2....
or take a stereo pedal and run the pedal outputs one into each channel
or an ABY box with an out to each channel if you engage both channels and it sounds hollow or less loud then they are out of phase, and you need to correct the phase of one of them......plug a pedal like the Baby Pink in AFTER the split to one channel only and you will here what a dual channel amp with the channels in phase can sound like ...this is also nice because you can boost the nonverb channel for solos and then unboost and get the reverb back..... thats what I do anyway...
quote:Originally posted by Headshot: I'd also suggest adjusting the bright cap value. This is literally a 5 minute job (after the amp is dissasembled.) Maybe you could schedule a time to bring it to a tech, and have them work on it while you wait?
Head
It's really that simple.
The cap is located between one side of the volume pot and the wiper and what it does is pass the highs (when the switch is in the bright position).
Schematics are readily found and it's very easy to do. You could bring it over and we could even do it together if you want. Just say the word brother!
Posts: 3530 | Location: the MusictoyZ Chat | Registered: August 05, 2002
I wouldn't even bother removing or changing the bright cap - just solder a new cap across the lugs of the volume control. Start with 47pf, I bet that will do the job.
quote:Originally posted by Headshot: I'd also suggest adjusting the bright cap value. This is literally a 5 minute job (after the amp is dissasembled.) Maybe you could schedule a time to bring it to a tech, and have them work on it while you wait?
Head
It's really that simple.
The cap is located between one side of the volume pot and the wiper and what it does is pass the highs (when the switch is in the bright position).
Schematics are readily found and it's very easy to do. You could bring it over and we could even do it together if you want. Just say the word brother!
Hey thanks for the offer George- that sounds great! I like Donner's idea of having a little knob on there that could control the bright cap, then instead of just having bright on/off I could set it anywhere inbetween... do you know if that's doable?
Posts: 1421 | Location: Long Island | Registered: July 15, 2002
quote:Originally posted by DonneR: ... and to put a finer point on what JPB was explaining.... What ever you change on the bright cap you will actually be changing the DOWN position as the up or bright position is actually the amp itself with no cap - but you can raise the brightness of the down position up to where you want it....
But you CAN jumper the channels on fenders , you just need something to reverse the phase between them like the Baby Pink Booster or the Launch Pad, or there are even just some normal pedals that do that as part of thier circuitry but youd have to experiment ( one of my delays does this- I had to take t he BPB OUT as it was double correcting!!) ----
If you havent tried this its a nice sound upgrade with the channels phase corrected.....
Plug into input 1 on normal channel - plug out from input 2 to a pedal and t hen out from the pedal into channel 2....
or take a stereo pedal and run the pedal outputs one into each channel
or an ABY box with an out to each channel if you engage both channels and it sounds hollow or less loud then they are out of phase, and you need to correct the phase of one of them......plug a pedal like the Baby Pink in AFTER the split to one channel only and you will here what a dual channel amp with the channels in phase can sound like ...this is also nice because you can boost the nonverb channel for solos and then unboost and get the reverb back..... thats what I do anyway...
Hey Don, I pretty much understand what you're saying about the phase correction, but does the Launch Pad correct phase even when bypassed? Or would it have to be on all the time for that?
Posts: 1421 | Location: Long Island | Registered: July 15, 2002