Hey guys,

I need some info on the H&K Rotosphere. What is the difference between the "original" model and the Mark II??

Thanks!!!!

Head

Big thing is the latching switch for the speed ramping. On the first version it was momentary, the second version its latching. Some people don't like the latching switch at all. I like the momentary switch myself as it feels more natural to what it does....

Hmmm... I think I'd rather have momentary myself.

Anyone else?

Head

quote:

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Originally posted by Play by Tone:
Big thing is the latching switch for the speed ramping. On the first version it was momentary, the second version its latching. Some people don't like the latching switch at all. I like the momentary switch myself as it feels more natural to what it does....

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Cool; I was going to post this as a topic as well as I want to get one. Can you clarify "latching" vs "ramping?"

Ver 2 also has some speed adjustments for the rotors, I think only for the top speed. I was looking into ver2 until I found out it had a locking 'brake' switch, I use the momentary switch alot, - I like to ride the speed while I play. The brake switch controls the the slowdown of the rotors from either the high or low speed until they come to a stop. Letting go of the switch starts them up again, until they reach the selected speed. Its a very nice feature and the latching switch would certainly interfere with the way I play. I guess the switch could be replaced with the other type if needed.

Is there a major difference in tone between the two? Would I go wrong with either??

Head

I have both generations of Roto. Any noticeable difference in tone comes from different tubes, not from any differences in the units themselves. The latching brake switch sucks big time. I replaced the footswitch with a momentary, and it's sorta OK, but not like the original. On the modded 2nd gen Roto, there's a weird little change in the tone when you use the brake -- like it goes to the end of a cycle and "parks" or something. Personally, just because of the way H&K fucked up the brake, I prefer the original Roto to the new one...... Other than that, not much difference (I never felt a need to fiddle with the speeds on the old one, but then again, someone else might).

I posted in an old thread where I got the replacement switch, along w/the part number, but the forum search engine doesn't seem to recall it...

Well, I bought a Rotosphere. I'm pretty sure it's the first model. It should be here in a few days. I'll let you all know what I think.

Head

It will have a very dull grey front panel if its a MKI. No swirls in the finish. It might also look like it has dirt spots on it. Thats a MKI.

BTW, there are speed adjustments in the MKI, cause I remember seeing them inside mine when I commissioned Analog Mike to attempt a true bypass mod on these things...

Did Mike come up with a true bypass mod?? I was just planning on using a loop box, since I've heard the Rotosphere sucks alot of tone when off. If it could be true bypassed that would be cool.

I'm pretty sure the one I bought has a dull finish, and not the swirls on the top. I think I would prefer the non latching ramp switch.

Head

Yeah I sent him mine to see if it could be done. It was a bit of a pain, but he made it happen.

You either go with mono in/mono out with a 3PDT, or mono in/stereo out with a 4PDT. The 3PDT is heavier duty, the 4PDT is like what he uses on his stereo clone chorus. I did the stereo outs and the switch was fine for me.

I have one of the Mk.II Rotospheres, and I really like it. I have mine in the tube buffered effects loop of my Demeter amp, and there's no tone suckage, noise, or anything else bad whatsoever. That also may be due to the goodness of the Demeter loop though, as much as the Roto itself.

One word of caution: don't judge the effectiveness or quality of the unit poorly if you are using it in front of an amp's input. It was designed to run with a line-level signal (like rack gear), not instrument level signals such as straight from a guitar.

As for the latching vs. momentary switch, you can "ride" the ramping on the Mk.II unit if you insert the 1/4" plug from a non-latching footswitch half-way into the jack for speed changing. Strange, but it works! Boss makes a non-latching footswitch, and I use one for this purpose ocassionally.

Hmmm... I only have one amp with an FX loop, and I don't really use it very much. I was planning on using it in front of my amps. Has anyone else used in front of amps?

Head

Do you use the preamp of the amp for a lot of gain?

Most of the time I get my dirt from overdrive pedals.

Head

quote:

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Originally posted by stratolawyer:
As for the latching vs. momentary switch, you can "ride" the ramping on the Mk.II unit if you insert the 1/4" plug from a non-latching footswitch half-way into the jack for speed changing. Strange, but it works! Boss makes a non-latching footswitch, and I use one for this purpose ocassionally.

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Cool tip -- I'll have to try that!

quote:

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Originally posted by Headshot:
Most of the time I get my dirt from overdrive pedals.

Head

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Then the pedal will do a good job at rotary speaker emulation. If you were using your preamp for most of the gain it could get washed out.

I have been using my Roto for a few years now in front of the amp. It is the first edition but has the newer faceplate with swirls. I just recently put the roto into a looper - I noticed that it was distoring the signal even if off if the preamp was showing overdrive (LED indicator). When on, I prefer to avoid overdriving the tube as it gets a bit harsh - I have read that changing the tube (not really a difficult process) will change the distortion characteristics. I am currently looking into a level matching unit to use with this effect to resolve the line level input design. Basically, I have always used it in front of the amp and it sounds great. The unit has a slight hiss depending on the setting of the input/output controls, I ended up with input at 10 oclock and output at 2 and the hiss is minimal. This was probably designed to be used with the H&K Tubeman as a direct into power amp or recording setup.